It has happened to us all before, we've been on an extra powerful problem or extra long route and our forearms are burning. We're pumped.
Lactic Acid
Physiologically, when we are pumped, there is an excess of lactic acid within the muscles of our forearms. Our bodies go through several processes to produce energy for muscular movement. One of these processes is called fast glycolysis. During fast glycolysis, the body takes glucose (simple sugar) and breaks down ATP (energy) and pyruvate, a substance that can be used in other processes to make more ATP.
As we climb, we breathe in oxygen, that oxygen is then attached to hemoglobin in the blood,
the heart takes that blood and pumps it through out body to our working
muscles. The oxygen pumped to our muscles is then used to oxidize pyruvate and make more energy. If there isn't enough oxygen in the area pyruvate will turn into lactate. Lactate is a volatile substance and releases hydrogen ions. These ions cause our blood's pH to drop becoming more acidic. This why our muscles burn when we are pumped.
That burning sensation is uncomfortable, but the formation of lactic acid is bad for performance for two other reasons. Fast glycolysis produces very little energy by itself compared to the body's other energy producing processes, so we aren't being efficient with our bodies' nutrients. Second, many of the enzymes that help the body run well, work optimally at specific pH levels. As our blood pH levels decrease these functions are disrupted.
The Lactate Threshold
The harder or longer we climb the greater the amount of energy and oxygen required to keep us on the wall. As discussed above, if there isn't enough oxygen in the area pyruvate will turn into lactate. The amount of work or exertion where the body can no longer supply oxygen fast enough causing a build-up of lactate is called the lactate threshold. If we continue to perform at an intensity past the lactate threshold we will quickly become fatigued. Lactate can be removed from the blood stream by a process called the Cori Cycle. The Cori Cycle occurs in the liver and converts lactate into glucose to be used as energy again. The only problem with the Cori Cycle is that it is very slow and it takes about an hour for most lactate to be removed.
However, there are several things that we can do to reduce the amount of lactate produced, speed up the Cori Cycle, or increase our lactate thresholds.
Proper Rest
Lactate formation isn't significant until the lactate threshold is reached. If we give ourselves long enough rest between attempts, our bodies have enough time to reset and remove the little amount of lactate produced. According to the NSCA, very powerful exercise i.e. bouldering requires a work-to-rest ratio of about 1:12 (i.e. if you climb for 10 seconds, you should rest from about 2 minutes). As the intensity of the activity decreases, the amount of suggested rest decreases.
Interval Climbing
The Cori Cycle and lactate removal can be sped up by participating in light physical activity, so in our case easier routes or problems. I train using a drill I call Hills and Valleys. For this drill, pick two ratings of climbs with a good difference in difficulty i.e. V1 and V5. Pick a random sequence of nine problems, with at least 3 being the high rating i.e.
V1-V1-V5-V1-V1-V5-V1-V5-V1
Attempt this sequence with as little sitting/standing rest as possible. The lower rating problems should be the rest.
Threshold Training
Threshold Training is the most intense technique out of the three discussed. During threshold training the climber climbs a route or problem that is right at their limit, but they know they can do. The climber times their attempt and then rests for as long or shorter than it took them to climb the route and then repeats the process until fatigue. By not giving the body time to properly rest between attempts the body must make adaptations for future training sessions i.e. a week away. The body "learns" to store more glucose, glycogen, and enzymes in order to maintain these demands. I have developed a threshold timer, that subtracts certain amounts of time from the rest period. The timer should work offline for most browsers so you can bookmark the page and use the timer at the gym or even outside on a smart device.
**Couple of notes about Threshold Training**
Threshold Training is very taxing on the body and it suggested that this type of training be limited to only 1 to 2 training sessions a week. Be smart about this, if you notice any pain or a significant decrease in technique during the drill stop immediately to prevent injury.
Second, the Threshold Training protocol used at lower intensity can be very beneficial at learning how to pace oneself on very long routes and problems.
Showing posts with label Climbing Specific Training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Climbing Specific Training. Show all posts
Sunday, March 31, 2013
Sunday, November 11, 2012
My Training Rig
I wanted to share a photo of my training rig and why I set it up this way.
The setup includes: the overhanging BlankSlate, Metolius rock rings, and Revolution system holds. I also have my iPod touch attached to the crossbar.
I
purchased the rock rings back in the day when I first started climbing
simply because they were the cheapest fingerboard like device I could
find but I've kept them over the years for a lot of reasons. The rock
rings are very versatile and can be hung pretty much anywhere. Because
the rings hang they move while the climber moves making them friendlier
on the joints and works the stabilizing muscles in the shoulders more.
For
the last couple of years I have been living in apartments (where there
have been hefty fines for altering walls i.e. drilling and nailing) so I
have been going to local parks to hang the rock rings and workout.
However, when I learned about the BlankSlate I was excited at the
possibility of training inside during the winter months. I chose the
overhanging BlankSlate so the rock rings could still hang freely and
high enough that my knees wouldn't be touching the ground.
You
guys know how much I'm a fan of having options when it comes to
training. So my rig wouldn't be complete without some system holds. I
like the separate system holds compared to a solid fingerboard because I
can do offset hangs off of different combinations of holds and
distances rather than the same combination every time (i.e. large edge
and and small edge.)
With
the BlankSlate, the rock rings, and the system holds I can work on:
vertical contact strength with the rock rings, vertical and overhanging
contact strength with the rings and the system holds, and when I'm in
the mood for a real challenge just the overhanging system holds. On my
iPod in the "notes" app I have several different hangboard routines and I
use the "timer" app to time hangs, rests, and total workout time.
Here are a couple of links to different hangboard routines.
Feel free to post photos of your training rigs!
Wednesday, August 29, 2012
Schemas in Action
Sunday, May 13, 2012
System Boards
If you don't have easy access to different climbing areas, a System
Board is a great way to vary your climbing experiences at home.
The majority of what I have read regarding System Boards/Walls suggests that they should be used for interval training or for forearm strength gains, but I propose that System Boards have a greater potential for skill training and schema development. The standard System Board has holds (usually system holds[a hold with multiple edges so the climber can use various types of grips]) placed in a symmetrical pattern and the climber climbs up and down using the same style of hold, but to me the climber might as well perform pull-ups on a hang board. I suggest that the configuration of the holds look more like this:
The hexagons would be the system holds and the squares would be the footholds. If you remember from the previous blog post, when we are developing schemas we want to change only one aspect of the skill at a time.
Distance Drill
So if we are developing a distance schema we want to keep the hold type, size (if you aren't using a system holds), angle of the wall, and foot placement the same throughout the drill.
Other Drills
Use the same sequence but use a different type of hold, switch foot placement after each sequence, or if at all possible change the angle of the wall.
Several different hold companies sell their own versions of a system hold, here are just a few E-grips, Atomik, Revolution, and Pusher
The majority of what I have read regarding System Boards/Walls suggests that they should be used for interval training or for forearm strength gains, but I propose that System Boards have a greater potential for skill training and schema development. The standard System Board has holds (usually system holds[a hold with multiple edges so the climber can use various types of grips]) placed in a symmetrical pattern and the climber climbs up and down using the same style of hold, but to me the climber might as well perform pull-ups on a hang board. I suggest that the configuration of the holds look more like this:
The hexagons would be the system holds and the squares would be the footholds. If you remember from the previous blog post, when we are developing schemas we want to change only one aspect of the skill at a time.
Distance Drill
So if we are developing a distance schema we want to keep the hold type, size (if you aren't using a system holds), angle of the wall, and foot placement the same throughout the drill.
- The climber starts with both hands on the yellow system hold
- Moves their right hand to red system hold directly above the start hold and then back to the start hold
- Moves their right hand to the blue system hold directly above the start hold and then back to the start hold
- Moves their right hand to the blue system hold at the top of the wall and then back to the start hold
- The climber repeats the same sequence but now grabs(with their right hand) the holds that were to the right of the main holds.
- The climber repeats the same sequence but now grabs(with their right hand) the holds that were to the left of the main holds.
- The climber repeats this entire sequence but now with the left hand moving.
- Sequence for the Right Hand
- Sequence for the Left Hand
Use the same sequence but use a different type of hold, switch foot placement after each sequence, or if at all possible change the angle of the wall.
Several different hold companies sell their own versions of a system hold, here are just a few E-grips, Atomik, Revolution, and Pusher
Sunday, April 29, 2012
Variability and Schemas
When discussing skill development, variability refers to the various
aspects of the skill that will change it's general outcome. Examples
include the amount of force used to grip a hold, the direction that the
hold is grabbed, etc.
Variability Training
To make variability useful with our training we want to change one aspect of the skill and keep the others constant. Practicing dynos is a good example. If we want to practice higher and higher dynos, the holds that we are dyno-ing to and from should be the same, and the direction we are dyno-ing should also be the same; the only thing that we are changing is the distance between the holds. On the other hand if we want to practice dynos to smaller and smaller holds we would keep the starting hold, the direction and the distance the same, we would just change the ending hold.
Schemas
Fortunately our brains are very smart and we don't have to perform every single variation of a skill. Our brains develop what are called schemas, according to Schimdt and Wrisberg schemas are "a set of rules relating the various outcomes of a person's actions to the parameters that the person sets to produce those outcomes". In other words, if we want to dyno higher our brains understand that they need to tell the muscles in our legs to contract stronger in order to reach that outcome. As a result of schemas, if an individual learns to dyno with the holds four and six feet apart, that individual will have a greater success dyno-ing at a distance of five feet. Schemas work with all aspects of climbing including hold type, size, angle, direction, and wall angle.
Variability Training
To make variability useful with our training we want to change one aspect of the skill and keep the others constant. Practicing dynos is a good example. If we want to practice higher and higher dynos, the holds that we are dyno-ing to and from should be the same, and the direction we are dyno-ing should also be the same; the only thing that we are changing is the distance between the holds. On the other hand if we want to practice dynos to smaller and smaller holds we would keep the starting hold, the direction and the distance the same, we would just change the ending hold.
Schemas
Fortunately our brains are very smart and we don't have to perform every single variation of a skill. Our brains develop what are called schemas, according to Schimdt and Wrisberg schemas are "a set of rules relating the various outcomes of a person's actions to the parameters that the person sets to produce those outcomes". In other words, if we want to dyno higher our brains understand that they need to tell the muscles in our legs to contract stronger in order to reach that outcome. As a result of schemas, if an individual learns to dyno with the holds four and six feet apart, that individual will have a greater success dyno-ing at a distance of five feet. Schemas work with all aspects of climbing including hold type, size, angle, direction, and wall angle.
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Random vs. Blocked "Practice"
In the worlds of football, volleyball, and other ball sports the
thought of practice is commonplace, but in climbing not so much. We
often think of doing exercises to become stronger, or projecting a route
or problem. However, every time we perform a move we are practicing a
different skill.
Whether we are grabbing a jug or executing a drop knee we are either developing or re-enforcing what are called motor programs. Motor programs provide our bodies with a general idea of how to perform old as well as new tasks. So if every time we climb we develop motor programs, what is the best way to practice climbing?
Random vs. Blocked Practice
In Schmidt and Wrisberg's Motor Learning and Performance, blocked practice is defined as a practice sequence in which individuals rehearse the same skill repeatedly. Random practice is defined as a practice sequence in which individuals perform a number of skills in a (quasi-) random order, thus avoiding or minimizing consecutive repetitions of any single skill.
In climbing blocked practice would be climbing the same route over and over and over, where random practice would be climbing a new route every time you got on a crag or wall. Studies have shown that when individuals participate in random practice they are less successful then those who participate in blocked practice initially. However, the individuals who participate in random practice show better performance later than those involved in blocked practice.
There are a couple of hypotheses to why this happens. The first is the elaboration hypothesis. Shea and Zimny state that the elaboration hypothesis is the idea that random practice during practice causes people to elaborate or discover the distinctiveness among skills (whereas blocked practice does not), which is beneficial for performance in a retention test. In other words, when performing the same skill over and over we don't need to think of the nuances involved, but when we perform a different skill each time we often find a new aspect of the skill.
The other hypothesis is the forgetting or spacing hypothesis. Schmidt and Wrisberg state that random practice prevents the repetition of a given task on successive attempts, allowing short-term forgetting, which requires the learner to generate the solution on every trial (whereas blocked practice does not); the method of generating the solution is learned which is effective on delayed tests of retention.
What it all means...
I'm not suggesting that we all stop projecting routes and problems, but I am suggesting that we start climbing a greater variety of routes even if they are easier than our limits because there is always something new to be learned and you may find your ability to on-sight or flash increase.
Whether we are grabbing a jug or executing a drop knee we are either developing or re-enforcing what are called motor programs. Motor programs provide our bodies with a general idea of how to perform old as well as new tasks. So if every time we climb we develop motor programs, what is the best way to practice climbing?
Random vs. Blocked Practice
In Schmidt and Wrisberg's Motor Learning and Performance, blocked practice is defined as a practice sequence in which individuals rehearse the same skill repeatedly. Random practice is defined as a practice sequence in which individuals perform a number of skills in a (quasi-) random order, thus avoiding or minimizing consecutive repetitions of any single skill.
In climbing blocked practice would be climbing the same route over and over and over, where random practice would be climbing a new route every time you got on a crag or wall. Studies have shown that when individuals participate in random practice they are less successful then those who participate in blocked practice initially. However, the individuals who participate in random practice show better performance later than those involved in blocked practice.
There are a couple of hypotheses to why this happens. The first is the elaboration hypothesis. Shea and Zimny state that the elaboration hypothesis is the idea that random practice during practice causes people to elaborate or discover the distinctiveness among skills (whereas blocked practice does not), which is beneficial for performance in a retention test. In other words, when performing the same skill over and over we don't need to think of the nuances involved, but when we perform a different skill each time we often find a new aspect of the skill.
The other hypothesis is the forgetting or spacing hypothesis. Schmidt and Wrisberg state that random practice prevents the repetition of a given task on successive attempts, allowing short-term forgetting, which requires the learner to generate the solution on every trial (whereas blocked practice does not); the method of generating the solution is learned which is effective on delayed tests of retention.
What it all means...
I'm not suggesting that we all stop projecting routes and problems, but I am suggesting that we start climbing a greater variety of routes even if they are easier than our limits because there is always something new to be learned and you may find your ability to on-sight or flash increase.
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